Things have changed since American expat Mary Ann moved to Saudi Arabia in the 1980s, where she now lives with her husband and children. She describes how Jeddah, while it maintains its strict social standards, has grown and become a place that is easier for new expats to adjust to. Mary Ann also shares some tips on moving to and living in Saudi Arabia.	Mary Ann McEnery

-Where were you born?

   USA

-In which country and city are you living now?

Jeddah, Saudi Arabia

-Are you living alone or with your family?

With my husband and our two children

27 years off and on .... Since the early 80's

-What is your age?

49

-When did you come up with the idea of living in Saudi Arabia?

I went to college in the midwest and fell in love with a fellow Saudi student. We knew each other for four years before we decided to get married.  We were supposed to live in Saudi for just 2 years; earn lots of money, and return to the USA.   This is a common story, (I found out much later), that many Saudi men tend to tell their sweethearts overseas.   Usually, once a Saudi man arrives back in Saudi Arabia,  it's rare for them to live in another country, or even another city, unless it's for work.  This is due to family pressures and expectations at home. )     However, my husband and I moved to Orlando, Florida, for about 5 years while our children were young.  It was really a fantastic experience to spend with our children, as neither of us worked during that time.   Very, very few expats married to Saudis have had that type of luxury afforded them. 

-Was it hard to get a visa or a working permit?

No, not at that time. 

-Was it difficult for you to get medical insurance before you went there or when you first arrived?

They didn't have insurance back in the early 80's, but it's easy to get now through your husband's company or with the company you are employed by.

-How do you make your living in Saudi Arabia?

My husband is employed full time.  I used to work full time (as an English teacher/coordinator in the  schools here in the Kingdom, but now I am tutoring a few hours a day.   Actually, I am making as much as if I worked full time (local hire).  Many teachers can earn as much as their salaries by tutoring after school.   If you are hired from overseas, make sure that you get a generous package. It should include housing, living allowance, tickets home once or twice a year, a company car,  auto and medical insurance and paid school fees for your children.  Private schools for expats are extremely expensive here.  (By the way, Americans married to Saudis have to get Saudi government permission to get their children in these private schools on a yearly basis, and it is very difficult, and very expensive.)   You may even want to ask for a driver for your family, as women are not allowed to drive.    Be sure to go to an well established company with strong recommendations from other expats, or you may find yourself out of work within 3 months. 

-Do you have any type of income generated?

As an expat married to a Saudi, I could find a job pretty easily. (if I wanted to)    Because I have experience teaching and because my husband is a Saudi, the company doesn't need to obtain or pay for all the extras such as a visas, living allowances, etc.

I speak some Arabic, yes, but not as well as I should.  I understand more than I speak.  Actually, almost everyone here speaks English. You can get by without Arabic, but it would be better if you could at least learn some basic phrases.

-Do you miss home and family sometimes?

Yes, I miss my family so much, but I travel there at least twice a year and stay for a month or two at a time (easy to do when tutoring younger children).   When I first arrived in Jeddah, there wasn't any English on the radio and they only had one hour of English T.V. each day--one in the morning which had cartoons, and one hour in the evening-- Columbo, and Little House.   Now, Saudi Arabia has a selection of satelite t.v programs in many languages.  There are also huge, beautiful shopping malls, expat beaches, scuba diving, snorkling, bowling, card nights, horse back riding, clubs, shows.....almost everything you have anywhere else.  You just have to ask other expats once you're here. The expat communities live in 'bubbles' around town, protected from the majority of prying local eyes and usually have to live in guarded compounds. 

Yes, I want to travel with my husband and with my friends.   Basically, I'm retired...and tutoring is a hobby.

We bought a house in the States that we keep rented out, and we bought one here in Saudi Arabia where we live now. Most companies that hire you pay for your housing.  Just be sure that you get into a good place with other expats from your home country.  This will make the transition a bit easier. 

It has gotten more expensive to live here--especially the food---but, I'd say it's like any other big city.

Saudis are very kind and generous on the whole. It is a very exciting 'small town' place to watch evolve as you make your way through the years of work and life here.  Today, it is a very strict society (much more so than in the early 80's when we arrived)...and it's definitely a man's world.   Women, when off the compound, need to wear a long black abayya to cover their clothes.  Hair covering is not required, but I find that I feel more secure and anonomous doing so.  People (men, women, and children) all stare at anyone who stands out.   As a tall blonde, it doesn't take much to draw attention. 

-What are the positive and negative aspects of living in Saudi Arabia?

As a woman, it was extremely difficult to adjust back in the early 80's. Jeddah didn't have fresh milk or eggs or flour, there was very little English on T.V.   For radio, you had to tune into the BBC, and most people were without phones.  There were no malls and only a few inside stores with air conditioning.  Furniture from the states was too expensive to afford by most.  A dining room table (without the chairs) could cost you $10,000 back then ....if you were lucky!   However, due to these harsh conditions, the overall expat community, at that time, was much closer than it is today.  It was also a much safer time.  That said, in the past 25 years there have been major changes in Jeddah.  Today, you can find McDonalds, Pizza Hut, Applebees, Ruby Tuesdays, and KFC to name a few places to eat.  Starbucks coffee is on almost every corner and there are donut shops around town...even a Krispy Kreme!   There are huge shopping malls to buy everything you might need and at reasonable prices.  There is satelite t.v. and internet, cell phones and the latest and greatest high tech t.v.'s, sterios, and computers.  As a matter of fact, many expats come back after their 2 year working contract finishes. You get a huge tax break, so it's a good way to save for your retirement in less time.  Usually, vacation time runs 40 to 60 days a year.  In your time off, many choose to visit other countries in the area like Dubai, Bahrain, Egypt, Lebanon, Greece, and Europe.  

-Do you have any tips for our readers about living in Saudi Arabia?

Yes, do your research. Read as much as you can by people who are living here; as we are the ones to give you the best and most current advice in many different situations. We can tell you if a certain school is in your child's best interest as we have the inside scoop.   If you are thinking of marrying a Saudi man, be sure to speak to others that have been here.    I mean, there are things that happen that you just don't read about every day that you need to understand!   My husband and I have been married for many years, but I wish that I had known and understood the language, culture, and people more before I came here. It would have been a much easier transition for me. 

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